Book Launching: Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

I wanted to share some exciting news with you about the launch of my newest book, Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic: A Guide to Planning the Ultimate Shade Garden! I have had requests for designing an increasing number of shade gardens, and with colleagues and clients urging me to write a book on the topic, I took the plunge and made it a reality! Most gardens change over time and just about every property experiences some element of shade at some point. A shade planting is easy to obtain if you have the right plants in the right place, which is the purpose of this book. The photographs were taken mostly by me over the years and the information presented is based on over 26 years of my involvement in the horticultural industry. My goal is to make it possible for others to plan a shade garden they can enjoy for years to come.

Here is a quick overview of the book:

Shade gardening can be challenging to some, but a beautiful shade garden that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing can be achieved providing you have the right tools. This handy reference delivers over 150 shade plant selections with full descriptions and tips for growing and maintenance all in one place, allowing you to plan your outdoor space easily and without the stress. Whether you are a novice or avid gardener, Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic: A Guide to Planning the Ultimate Shade Garden will provide the proper tools and knowledge you will need to create your outdoor retreat, even in the shadiest of conditions.

Explore over 150 plant selections ideal for shade.
View colorful photographs with detailed plant descriptions including zone hardiness, pollinator friendliness, deer resistance, drought tolerance and more.
Learn about recommended plants for hard to plant areas and dry to moist shade.
Navigate easily: Plants are divided into categories of evergreens, deciduous trees & shrubs, perennials, grasses, sedges and ferns, groundcovers, and annuals.
Get some design inspiration with sample shade combinations. Recommendations for companion plantings are supplied along the way.
Learn how to maintain a healthy garden with recommended maintenance tips. Learn how to identify and treat common insects and diseases.
This handy reference supplies all the tools you need to create a successful shade garden!

Lee Miller is a landscape/garden designer, consultant, garden coach, speaker, and award-winning garden blog author from the south shore of Long Island, who has been involved in the horticultural industry for over 26 years. She has donated her time as a contributing writer for various magazine publications and has participated as a presenter for local universities, gardening clubs and horticultural conferences. To keep current in the field, Lee Miller is an active member of various garden related organizations, constantly learning and sharing her knowledge with others. Lee Miller is the author of five publications, A Guide to Northeastern Gardening, Landscape Design Combinations, Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener, Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden and her most recent addition, Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic, each sharing her experiences and knowledge as a seasoned gardener. With trowel in hand since the age of five, her passion for gardening continues to grow.

I have been gardening all my life and take the information further by offering specific species of plants which I have found to be successful. I am hoping that each one of my books can pass on a piece of my knowledge and experiences to help others create a garden they can enjoy. To my clients, thank you for allowing me to design your gardens and thank you to all who welcomed me with camera in hand, which helped to make this book a reality! To my readers, thank you for your support.

Visit My Author Page & Books!

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic: A Guide to Creating the Ultimate Shade Garden

“As Always…Happy Gardening!”

January 31, 2023 1

Container Planting Made Simple!

Container gardening is a fun and creative way to add interest to your outdoor space and add year round interest. There are some basic concepts to know to ensure the success of your planting. While there are many different types of materials used for planters, some are better used than others, depending on your location and hardiness zone. First, there is concrete, which is attractive, durable and can take just about any type of weather. It is important to note; however, that concrete could be quite heavy. Terra-cotta or clay containers are very attractive, and excellent for warmer temperatures, but should not be left outside during winter in colder climates, as they are somewhat fragile and can chip easily. I bring mine indoors here in zone 7 once the temperatures drop to below 50 degrees to prevent that from happening. An alternate is a durable form of wood, such as cedar or non-treated pine, which will last for years to come. To prolong the lifetime of your planter, brush surfaces with a clear waterproofing sealer meant for outdoor wood. My favorite and most often used materials for containers include resin, fiberglass or plastic, all which will last for several seasons, are less costly and provide an attractive look. Many resin planters today look just like real concrete and add a nice touch to the garden.

Figure 1: Left to Right-Variegated Boxwood, Columnar Juniper ‘Blue Arrow’ and Chamaecyparis ‘Nana Lutea’

When choosing your plants, try to combine various plants for their interest, whether it be for foliage, blooms or other characteristic. In most planter combinations, the three basic elements include the “thrillers”, “fillers” and “spillers”. The “thriller” is known to add height and make a bold vertical statement. In the container planting above (Figure 1), the columnar juniper takes the role of “thriller”, making a statement and drawing the eye into the center. “Filler” plants are the more rounded selections that are usually placed around the main focal point and add a look of fullness to the planter. “Spiller” plants are added to hang over the edges of the container to give a more flowing look. The “fillers” in the above planter and in Figure 2 are the rounded boxwood and cypress, with a Dwarf Alberta Spruce as the “thriller’ in Figure 2. In Figure 3, three Mondo Grass make a simple planting with foliage spilling over the edges of the container. In Figure 4, there is a similar look with Black Mondo Grass on one side and Golden Japanese Sedge on the other, with Heuchera ‘Caramel’ for color in the center.

Figure 2: Same Planter as Above with Dwarf Alberta Spruce in Center

I for one like to enjoy my container planters all year long, so I often use a combination of evergreens, which can be appreciated not only during summertime, but in every season, including winter. The key is to choose plants which are at least two zones hardier than your location. I use plants which are cold hardy down to at least zone 5, since I am located in zone 7. This ensures that should the winter temperatures be colder than expected, the plants will survive. I also tend to keep the planters in a more sheltered area, such as near the house during the colder winter months. They receive regular watering from rain and or snow, but if there is a dry period, I will make a point of keeping the containers watered at least twice a month.

Figure 3: Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens,’ (Black Mondo Grass)

Figure 4: Left to Right: Black Mondo Grass, Heuchera ‘Caramel’ and Japanese Golden Sedge

Figure 5: Dwarf Alberta Spruce (center), Thuja occidentalis ‘Filiformis’ (Threadlike Arborvitae) left and right and Chamaecyparis ‘Nana’ (front center)

When it comes time to plant your container garden, I recommend a light, peat moss based all-purpose mixture, which will supply good drainage. Be sure there are adequate drainage holes for excess water to escape and that the container drains freely. I do not add rocks to the bottom of the pot, since I have found they can end up doing more harm than good, clogging the planter and not allowing water to drain. When planting, very gently loosen the root ball around each plant to prevent it from becoming root-bound and plant slightly higher than the soil level to allow for watering and top dressing or an additional layer of mulch, which will help to regulate soil temperature. Be sure that the plant is no deeper than the container it came in. Water right after planting and keep the container evenly moist, but not wet. For point of reference, the planter in Figure 5 measures 20 inches in diameter, while the smaller planters (Figures 1-3) are 18 inches long by 8 inches wide and Figure 4 measures 20 inches long by 8 inches wide.

For another type of look, try filling a terra-cotta pot with a variety of succulents (below) to create these sun-loving succulent planters or make a simple combination of various types of Coleus (bottom figure) for a shade setting. These are both fun and easy to create and will add interest all season long, until the temperatures freeze. I have found the succulent planters to overwinter just fine indoors alongside a sunny window or in a heated garage with some sunlight.. When it comes to selecting, I simply go to the nursery, choose my container and select succulents or Coleus that range in size, shape and color and always choose something that strikes my attention. Lay out the plants in the pot and give allowance for room to grow. The moral of the story is to have fun, get creative and keep in mind…”thrillers”, “fillers” and “spillers”!

For more gardening tips: Visit My Author Page and Books

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener.

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

Shade Gardening for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic: A Guide to Planning the Ultimate Shade Garden

December 15, 2022 0

Garden Maintenance: Summer Deadheading of Perennials

As the blooms of perennials start to fade, it is time to deadhead to encourage blooms to continue throughout the remainder of the summer months. Deadheading rejuvenates a plant’s appearance, delays the plant from going to seed and redirects the plant’s energy into root and vegetative growth. Most gardeners practice pruning to keep plants tidy and to extend the bloom period of certain perennials.

With perennials that produce several stalks of flowers above the foliage, such as Salvia (Meadow Sage), prune the center (oldest) stalk and leave the remaining two side stalks to produce new buds and blooms. For a visual, observe any three fingers on your hand that are next to each other. When you prune your salvia you will be cutting out the center stalk that is done blooming. On each side of the center stalk you will see two other (lateral) stalks with new buds emerging and blooms forming. If there are blooms done on the two side stalks you can cut those out as well. Only cut the spent stalks and the new flowers will form. I usually get about three blooms out of my salvia throughout the summer and into the early fall.

For Veronica (Spiked Speedwell), blooms start from the bottom of the stalk and work their way up. In the early stages of growth, the blooms will appear to be colorful on the bottom with green tips on the top of the stalk, making for very nice contrast! As the blooms mature, the entire stalk will be one color (mainly blue, purple, pink or white). Remove the spent blooms once the entire stalk has faded and the plant will produce new stalks and blooms to keep the interest coming. Deadheading will also encourage new light green foliage to emerge from the plant.

Daylily benefit from deadheading of faded blooms and removal of entire spent flower stalks. In mid-summer, when your daylilies are completing their first major bloom and producing seeds, remove faded flowers and seed stalks so that the plant’s energy goes back into producing new blooms. Clean up the appearance of the plant by removing any browned foliage, which usually can be seen around the base of the plant. While removing seed stalks will encourage more blooms, removing spent foliage will encourage new growth to rejuvenate the plant.

Other perennials that benefit from deadheading include, but are not limited to, Dianthus, Bee Balm, Lavender, False Sunflower, Coneflower, Yarrow, Blanket Flower, Butterfly Weed, Shasta Daisy and Aster.

By the second or third round of blooms, you may want to feed your plants to give them a boost and add energy for the rest of the season. (Note: Be sure not to feed in extreme heat as it can stress them, but rather wait for cooler temperatures). If your plants are brand new they may have been force bloomed, so for the first season you may only get one or two blooms, but come next year you will be able to push out three blooms on some plants if you time your pruning right. With regular maintenance of your perennials you can benefit from continuing blooms throughout the season.

For more gardening tips: Visit My Author Page and Books

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener.

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

July 10, 2021 1

Book Launching: Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

While the world has been in disarray, I have been spending more time in the garden than ever and decided to put some of my energy into writing again. I had been working on a personal reference for some time, which took off by storm during the pandemic. I had done research trying to find a gardening book that listed plant interest by month, and after much searching, I could not find anything that would do just that. There are references that list plants in alphabetical order or by type, but the search came up short when looking for interesting features by month. This resulted in my fourth book.

I am very excited to announce the publication of Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden. As a landscape designer for over 25 years, my focus always is to create a garden that has something of interest twelve months a year. I have added elements that focus on blooms, bark, berries or foliage to my own garden over the years to create something to look forward to during every season, and I now have a 12-month garden to enjoy. I have created this book so that you too can experience continuing interest in your space throughout every month of the year.

Description: Have you ever wondered if you could have interest in the garden twelve months a year? The answer is a definitive yes! Through years of experience as a landscape designer, I have accumulated a list of plants which are hardy in the Northeastern and Mid-Atlantic regions that will provide ongoing interest for your outdoor space. Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern and Mid-Atlantic Garden will take you on a journey through each month of the year, while providing that perfect mix of gardening interest along the way. Colorful photographs are followed by descriptions of each plant according to bloom time, foliage color or other notable characteristics, so that you can enjoy your outdoor space during every season. Additionally, environmental needs, plant care and maintenance tips are provided for each selection with any other important information. Finally, gardening tips and a summary of gardening chores are provided for each month. Are you ready for a twelve-month interest garden? Then come along and plan away!

Organizes plant interest by month for easy reference.
Plan with over 120 plant selections to choose from.
Colorful photographs are supplied with plant descriptions and care requirements.
Monthly gardening chores are suggested for each month.
Plant maintenance and care tips are recommended to help you maintain a healthy garden.
Helpful pointers on soil types, characteristics and identification are given.
Achieve the 12 month all season garden you have been looking for.

Visit Amazon for further details and purchase and thank you for your support.

Visit My Author Page

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden

January 16, 2021 3

A Guide to Pruning Hydrangea

As a landscape designer, I am often questioned as to when and how to prune the various types of hydrangea. The next welcome addition to your landscape could be one of the many show-stopping varieties of this plant and proper pruning is the key to successful blooms!

Generally, hydrangea either bloom on the “old wood” of the previous season, “new wood” of the current season or a combination of both. There are many types of hydrangea including the mopheads, lacecap, panicle, mountain, smooth, oakleaf and climbing. The Mopheads (Hydrangea macrophylla) have been the most widely planted hydrangea in home landscapes over the years and are usually blue or pink in color with large leaves. Hydrangea ‘Nikko Blue’ is very well known in the landscape for its large blue ball-shaped flowers that bloom towards the later part of the summer and deepen in color as they mature. ‘Nikko Blue’ Hydrangea does bloom on old wood, which means that if you are looking to prune your plant it needs to be done immediately after flowering before the fall. Hydrangea ‘Nikko Blue’ grows best in moist, well-drained soil in partial shade. It reaches 3-5 feet in height and is hardy to USDA Zone 5.

A newer alternative to the “old fashioned” variety of hydrangea is the Hydrangea ‘Endless Summer’ collection, which blooms on both old and new wood and ‘All Summer Beauty’ that blooms on the new growth of the season. Both of the later mentioned also have a much longer bloom time and repeatedly bloom throughout the summer. Each of these plants grows to approximately 3-5 feet in height, each grows best in partially shaded conditions (afternoon shade) and moist well drained soil and are hardy to USDA Zone 5. Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Blushing Bride’ in the Endless Summer Collection displays white blooms that turn pink with age. For these varieties that bloom on the “new wood” of the season, spent blooms and dead wood from the inner portion of the plant can be pruned out in either fall or early spring.

Hydrangea ‘Pia’ is a miniature French hybrid with broad pink flowers growing only to 2 to 3 feet in height, a good candidate for small spaces in zones 5-9. ‘Pia’ grows best in partial sun with afternoon shade and prefers a rich organic soil. Pia hydrangea bloom on old wood and generally need little to no pruning; however, if needed, prune immediately after flowering by cutting back flowering stems to a point of healthy buds. An alternate that blooms on the new wood of the season is the Cityline Series from Proven Winners, a dwarf hydrangea hybrid that matures to just 2-3′ tall by 3-4′ wide.

Another variety of Hydrangea ‘macrophylla’ is the Lacecap Hydrangea that displays a smaller inner circle of lace-like flowers surrounded by a ring of larger showier flowers. A favorite is Hydrangea ‘Tokyo Delight’ that displays beautiful cobalt blue flowers with an inner ring of delicate white flowers, grows to 4-6 feet and blooms late July through August, prefers afternoon shade, moist well drained soil and is hardy to USDA Zone 6. Prune Hydrangea ‘Tokyo Delight’ immediately after bloom since new buds form on the older wood from the previous season. An alternate lacecap hydrangea that blooms on both old and new wood is Hydrangea ‘Twist-n-Shout’ from the Endless Summer collection with beautiful blooms that turn to a purple-blue in a more acidic soil. Twist-n-Shout’ is hardy is USDA zones 4-9, grows 3-5 feet tall by wide and like all plants in the Endless Summer Collection, produces blooms on both old and new wood.

Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’ or the ‘Peegee’ Hydrangea is a personal favorite of mine for extremely large pyramidal white blooms in July throughout fall and abundant fragrance in the garden. Hydrangea ‘Peegee’ can be grown as a shrub or tree form and can serve as either a group planting or as a single specimen in a landscape design. Hydrangea ‘Grandiflora’ also grows 3-5 feet or higher in its tree form. This particular hydrangea can grow well in full to partial sun and blooms on new wood. Sent to the US from Japan in 1861 this beauty is a showpiece in the garden and is hardy in Zones 4-8.

Panicle hydrangea are known for being the most cold hardy and are very tolerant of pruning. They can reach a height of ten to fifteen feet or can be pruned to keep more compact. For a similar look to ‘Peegee’ with creamy-white panicle-shaped blooms and a more open look is Hydrangea ‘Tardivia’. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ is a newer introduction with beautiful elongated lime colored panicles that bloom in late summer and last through fall. Hydrangea ‘Tardivia’ and ‘Limelight’ (6-8 feet high by wide) both do best in full to partial sun and bloom on new wood. Hydrangea ‘Little Lime’ is a more compact version of ‘Limelight’ and also blooms on the new wood of the season.

Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, a native of the U.S., is a more shade tolerant hydrangea that produces showy ball shaped white blooms in summer, grows 3-5 feet in height and is hardy to USDA Zone 3. ‘Annabelle’ blooms on new wood and can be severely pruned in winter in order to restore shape.

The last two varieties of hydrangea are Hydrangea quercifolia or ‘Oakleaf ‘Hydrangea and Climbing Hydrangea. The Oakleaf hydrangea serves as an excellent plant for massing in a woodland setting. The name ‘Oakleaf’ comes from the oak-shaped leaves that turn a bright mahogany red in fall for a brilliant display. The upright panicles of large white flowers appear in June and the plant has a rounded habit, grows 4-6 feet in height and is hardy to USDA Zone 5. Hydrangea quercifolia does well in partial shade in a well drained most soil. This hydrangea blooms on old wood and should be pruned immediately after flowering. Climbing Hydrangea (H. anomala petiolaris) is an upcoming variety becoming more popular in the landscape. As the name implies this hydrangea once established produces vigorous vines and a profusion of lightly scented blooms. Climbing Hydrangea bloom on “old wood” from the previous season.

For more gardening tips Visit my Author Page

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

July 11, 2020 4

Early Detection & Treatment of Spruce Needle Cast Disease

Some familiar evergreens such as Colorado Blue Spruce may be susceptible to environmental stress. The recent pattern of summer drought, milder than usual winters and cool spring temperatures combined with wet conditions in the northeast have favored development of a fungal disease known as “needle cast”. Early detection and proper diagnosis is important in the treatment of this fungal disease and to ensure the health of your plant.

The best proactive means for preventing needle cast disease is to plant your Blue Spruce in the proper location and provide proper care. Blue Spruce prefer to be located in a well-drained soil in an area of full sun, meaning the plant should be receiving at least six hours of sunlight daily. A southern or western exposure suits this best. Prevent irrigation from directly spraying on the foliage of the plant. Constant moisture on foliage or over-watering can be a direct invitation for needle cast. Drip irrigation is recommended where possible, allowing the soil to dry between watering. Proper planting height is of course also necessary. Plant the tree at grade or slightly above the grade so that the root flare is visible. Do not plant too deeply. It is best that the lower branches have some air circulation above the ground.

The type of needle cast affecting Colorado Blue Spruce in the northeast is mainly Rhizosphaera needle cast (caused by the fungus Rhizosphaera kalkhoffii). While some browning and dropping of older needles in spruce is common, needle cast disease is noted by a distinct brownish-purple discoloration which appears on needles (usually towards the bottom of the tree) mostly in late summer, followed by the eventual death and dropping of older needles. In addition, the presence of black fruiting bodies on new growth in early spring is a sure sign. Typically, infections start near the bottom of the tree where foliage dries more slowly and progresses upwards. Lower branches may lose so many needles that growth at the tips stops, resulting in the death of the entire branch (photo below). Newer current growth may show no signs of the disease until during autumn and into spring.

Should your tree show signs of early needle cast, it is treatable. Needle cast can be effectively controlled with fungicides containing chlorothalonil. For moderate to severe Rhizosphaera needle cast, two properly-timed applications per year for at least two consecutive years (sometimes three) are required for control. After initial treatment, additional applications should occur when new needles are half elongated (around Memorial Day depending upon location) followed by a second application three to four weeks after the first. The timing of the two applications should be the same for the second and third year. Since needle cast is fungal and spread through spores, removal of branches showing early signs can prevent further infection, but the tree should still be treated with a fungicide and monitored on a regular basis.

The best method of preventing needle cast starts with proper planning, planting and monitoring. Early detection of any kind of disease leads to better results and remedies any further issues down the road. These tips also apply to dwarf forms of Blue Spruce, such as Picea pungens ‘Globosa’ (Globe Blue Spruce). Norway and Serbian Spruce are less likely to be damaged by needle cast and ‘Hoopsii’ and ‘Fat Albert’ cultivars of Colorado Blue Spruce are more resistant to the disease.

For more gardening tips Visit my Author Page

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow! -Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

Gardening by Month: A Monthly Guide to Planning the Northeastern & Mid-Atlantic Garden.

February 19, 2020 0

Best Wishes for a Happy New Year!

Wishing all of you, my readers, a wonderful new year filled with good health, prosperity and happiness. May your heart be filled with new hopes, your mind be open to new horizons and may the new year bring you promises for brighter tomorrows.

As we go through the upcoming year, may your gardens always be green and 2020 be everything you want it to be!

Thank you for being here, and always remember…“The gardening season officially begins on January 1^st with a dream!”

For winter reading…Visit my Author Page
A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Landscape Design Combinations
Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

~As Always…Happy Gardening and all the best for a very Happy New Year!~

January 1, 2020 2

Autumn Browning and Needle Shed on Hinoki Cypress: A Natural Process

If the inner needles on your Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis) are suddenly turning from a healthy looking green to shades of yellow, orange and brownish-red in autumn, there is little need for concern. Needle shed is all part of a natural process. Each year evergreens will produce new foliage in spring and part of the preparation process involves shedding their older foliage in the previous fall. Shedding of needles and foliage is a process that evergreens go through as a way of preparing for new growth once the weather warms. As the days become shorter and temperatures lower, evergreens go through a slight dormant period similar to deciduous trees and shrubs. Many evergreens such as Chamaecyparis (Hinoki Cypress), Thuja (Arborvitae), fir, pine, cedar, hemlock and spruce lose some of their needles every year and may go through a major shedding every three to five years.

Autumn Browning and Needle Shed Hinoki Cypress

To examine, look at your tree carefully. Older foliage is shed first so the losses should generally be from the inside out and not at the tips. Prior to shedding the needles appear from green to yellow, orange and eventually brown, remaining on the tree until the process is complete. Often the change is unnoticeable; however, the drier the season, more drastic the temperature change, or stronger the winds, the more noticeable the needle shed, a natural cleaning process leading to new growth in the spring. If desired, lightly brushing the inner portion of the plant will help to remove the older browned foliage. If concerned about any particular branches on your plant, scrape the bark with your fingernail down to the growing layer. If the branches are brown and brittle the area tested has met its demise. If there is presence of a green growing layer underneath the surface of the bark, the branch is indeed alive.

November 16, 2019 1

Fall Gardening Tip: Pruning Ornamental Grasses & Liriope

Fall Clean-up Tip: GRASSES: Cutting back ornamental grasses in fall can be harmful to them since freezing temperatures and cold snow lying on the crown on the plant can “hollow” them out. Grasses should be cut back in late March/early April once the threat of frost is gone and before new growth appears. If you want to tidy up your ornamental grasses, cut them back half-way in fall and leave the remainder of cutting back to spring. Leaving the grass during the wintertime also provides interest to the garden while preventing damage to its center.

The same technique should be used for maintaining Liriope (Lillyturf). Prolonged freezing temperatures can do damage to the crown of the plant, so it is best to leave the pruning until early spring when first signs of new growth appear.

Other ornamental grasses such as Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’) die back in winter but do look attractive in the landscape The same principles apply and pruning is best when performed in late winter/early spring.

For more gardening information and tips…

Visit My Author Page/Purchase My Books

A Guide to Northeastern Gardening: Journeys of a Garden Designer Zones 3-9

Landscape Design Combinations

Dream, Garden, Grow!-Musings of a Lifetime Gardener

October 3, 2019 0

Garden Pests: How to Eliminate Moles and Grubs from Your Landscape

I am often asked about how to eliminate certain pests from the garden, such as moles and grubs. This month’s post was contributed by a fellow blogger who has some knowledge about this very issue. Here are some helpful tips.

What this article addresses:

How do I eliminate grubs and moles?
How do I detect the presence of moles in his garden?
What are some humane techniques to remove moles?
When should I call a professional to eliminate moles?
What are some tips to deter moles from your garden?

Moles and grubs are the nightmare of beautiful gardens and perfect turf. An underground rodent, moles dig tunnels under the ground, forming mounds on the surface. Grubs live in the soil and feed on the roots of plants. Even if moles and grubs are not a direct nuisance to you, they can reap havoc on a garden.

How to Get Rid of Grubs:

Grubs are the larva of insects, especially Japanese beetle. This time of the year, grubs are found under soil surfaces, and feed on the roots of your lawn and landscape plants. Grubs are also a food source for moles; therefore, eliminating one pest can deter another.

Grub Removal Methods:

Milky Spore: Milky Spore is a bacterium, (Bacillus popillae), which is lethal to grubs of Japanese beetles. It is available in powdered form, and it works better when applied during late summer periods.

Nematodes: Beneficial nematodes (roundworms) are the natural predators of the microscopic world. One pouch of nematodes attached to a spray hose can be used to water your lawn and garden to kill grubs. It is most effective when applied after the soil heats up in the spring. Keep the lawn watered to allow the beneficial nematodes to work.

Note: Killing off grubs reduces the food source for moles and helps your lawn, but it does not guarantee that the moles will move on.

Detecting Moles in The Garden: Mounds of soil visible around the garden, with soil collapsing partially in some places are signs that a mole is present. Before declaring war on this small mammal, wait a few days to see if the animal persists. Moles are known to feed mainly on grubs and earthworms, so if your garden is poorly supplied with food, the invader will quickly leave your property once it discovers there is nothing desirable to eat.

If more molehills become evident, you can make the decision to chase these rodents from your garden. There are several ways of accomplishing this, many which can be found in stores or on the Internet, including traps, firecrackers, natural solutions and ultrasound. Some of these techniques are easy to implement.

How to Get Rid of Moles Naturally:

Once you have made the decision to get rid of the moles that disrupt your garden, you can choose one or more methods to deter them. Always consider respecting the environment and avoid inflicting bitter injury to these animals whenever possible.

Technique 1: Deterring Moles

Use Plants that Repel Moles: Some plants are noted to repel moles. Marigolds and some flowering bulbs such as onion, garlic, crown imperial lily, hyacinth, daffodil, or Castor bean can keep intruders at a distance thanks to their aroma. Place these plants into mole hills to help repel the unwanted visitors.

Anti-Mole Ultrasound: There are commercially available solar powered boxes emitting ultrasonic vibrations that are inaudible to humans but will disturb the hearing of moles. Some also produce vibrations. These anti-mole ultrasounds offer the advantage of removing many kinds of rodents. Remember to place these devices in different places wherever there is evidence of moles. These ultrasound boxes are commercially available, at between 20 and 40 dollars, depending on the model.

Stick and plastic bottle method: This simple technique has proven to be quite successful according to user feedback. Place a stick into the molehill and cover it with a plastic bottle, neck down. When the wind blows it will bang on the stick and produce vibrations that moles dislike. With the constant annoyance, your mole visitor may very well become disgruntled and move on. This well known tip does have its disadvantages (such as aesthetics) but with its simplicity of installation and success rate it is certainly worth a try! A similar method, the use of pin wheels placed near a mole hole, have also proven to be a successful approach.

Technique 2: Mole Elimination

If all else fails, metal traps are available in different styles. Before handling, wear a pair of gloves to avoid leaving a human smell on the trap. Locate the most recent molehill and arm the trap with a tension rod or wrench. Carefully cover the hole and mark the location. This method has proven successful at a low cost. Tunnel Mole Traps are designed for humane mole capture with two doors that only swing inwards to let the mole in but not out. After catching the mole unharmed, it can be released into another location in the wild. Simply bury the trap in the mole tunnel or hill and let the device do its work.

When to Contact a Professional:

The call to a professional may be the last resort if you cannot get rid of the moles on your own. This expert is perfectly equipped to hunt for and eliminate moles in your garden. Cost depends on distance traveled and materials used.

Author Bio:Vicki J. Stabile is a gardening enthusiast, involved in gardening at her home’s backyard for the past five years. Vicki loves to share her gardening knowledge with others through her blog, Patio Clinic.

July 8, 2019 1

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How to Get Rid of Grubs:

Technique 1: Deterring Moles

Technique 2: Mole Elimination

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